News

23 Jul, 2021
Nick Scali confirms it’s looking to buy Plush Sofas
Inside Retail

Following a successful first half, furniture business Nick Scali has offered Greenlit Brands an undisclosed sum to buy up its Plush Sofas business.

The two businesses are in non-exclusive discussions, and should any transaction take place, Nick Scali said it will likely be able to fund it with cash on hand and debt.

“As previously communicated to the market, the Company actively considers acquisitive growth opportunities from time-to-time having regard to the strategic rationale, available synergies, financial impact and the long-term value created for Nick Scali shareholders,” Nick Scali said in a letter to shareholders.

According to a report in The Australian, the buy-up could be part of a larger divestment by Greenlit which is reportedly also looking to sell off Freedom Furniture, Snooze and Original Mattress Factory.

A Greenlit Brands spokesperson told Inside Retail the group is considering a range of strategic options across its portfolio – including the sale of Plush.

“Greenlit Brands is carefully and methodically analysing all the options and is doing so from a position of strength, as demonstrated by the solid performance across its retail brands in FY20 and continuing through FY21,” the spokesperson said.

“Greenlit Brands will only consider strategic options that would crystallise an opportunity for its brands to grow to the next stage of their development.

23 Jul, 2021
David Jones and Country Road Group sales boosted by closed borders
SOURCE:
Ragtrader
Ragtrader

Woolworths (South Africa) has revealed that Australia's closed international borders have driven "inward-focused consumption," boosting retail spend in its brands David Jones and Country Road Group. 

In a trading update for the 52 weeks ended 27 June 2021, Woolworths revealed that both brands experienced an increase in sales during the period, despite extended lockdowns and subdued footfall in CBD and airport locations. 

David Jones sales over the 52-week period increased by 2.3% and by 0.9% in comparable stores, with second half sales up by 17.1%. 

DJs' online sales increased by 24.4% and contributed 17.3% to total sales for the current year.

"In line with our stated intention of exiting unproductive space, trading space was further reduced by 6.3%," Woolworths said in a statement. 

"Sales in our Elizabeth Street flagship store grew by 16.6% during the current year," the business said. 

Meanwhile, Country Road Group also saw a strong lift in sales during the period, seeing sales growth of 13.4% over the current year and by 15.3% in comparable stores, with second half sales up by 39.5%. 

Online sales increased by 30.7% and contributed 29.7% to total sales, while trading space was reduced by 2.8% for the current year.

"This result was underpinned by the robust performance of the Country Road brand and through refreshed product offerings across all brands," Woolworths commented on the CRG results. 

Currently, Woolworths South Africa is facing the impact of civil unrest in the country. 

"WHL echoes the sadness and deep concern expressed by many over the civil unrest in the province of KwaZulu Natal (KZN) and parts of Gauteng, which escalated into widespread looting and destruction of property in the affected areas," the business commented. 

"This has had a significant impact on our operations in these areas, particularly in KZN, as well as on our employees, customers and the broader community. 

"We are grateful that none of our employees in these affected areas suffered any injury.

"All of our stores in KZN as well as a number of stores in Gauteng last week had to temporarily close, prioritising the safety of our employees and our customers. 

"Our online delivery services and certain suppliers in those areas are also significantly affected given significant damage to their assets. 

"Eleven Woolworths stores have been looted and severely damaged with nine of the eleven stores in KZN and two in Gauteng. 

"Although looters gained entry to the Woolworths Maxmead Distribution Centre (DC) in KZN the infrastructure was not severely damaged and has been secured, together with our other DCs. 

"Operations have resumed and we have prioritised the provision of food into KZN," Woolworths said in a statement. 

23 Jul, 2021
Oroton appoints Jenny Child to top job
SOURCE:
Ragtrader
Ragtrader

Oroton has revealed that it has appointed Jenny Child as its incoming CEO.

Child will replace outgoing CEO David Kesby in October. 

Child joins the brand after it has experienced significant growth under Kesby's leadership, which includes 20% like-for-like growth over FY21 and the growth of the online channel which now represents over 25% of total revenue.

With Kesby at the helm, Oroton also diversified its accessories business with the successful introduction of a luxury apparel range, which was celebrated at Australian Fashion Week in June.

Joining the brand at such a pivotal time, Child will bring her extensive global experience in retail transformations, following 14 years at McKinsey & Co. 

During her time at the firm, Child worked with retailers to put consumer-centric strategies into action, navigate disruption and use data and technology to accelerate growth. 

Speaking on her appointment, Child said she was excited to join the company and drive the next stage of growth. 

"I’m thrilled to be joining Oroton. 

"What David, Sophie and the team have done in the last few years to refresh the relationship with consumers and plant new seeds in the business is truly impressive. 

"The momentum in the business plus today’s digital tailwinds mean that we have a fantastic opportunity ahead of us, and I’m excited to be part of shaping Oroton’s next era of growth," she said. 

Kesby will depart the business as a friend of the brand and leadership team. 

"I was pleased to join Oroton under the ownership of Will Vicars in 2018 with a directive to rebuild the team, modernise technology and infrastructure and shift this iconic brand to an agile business with an innovative culture and a focus on the customer," Kesby commented. 

"I am proud of the critical foundation work we have achieved and am leaving the business with a positive legacy and elevated trajectory.

"With a progressive digital growth strategy in place, I knew it was the right time for me to suggest a baton change.

"I look forward to the continued success of Oroton under Jenny’s stewardship," he said. 

Oroton owner Will Vicars thanked Kesby for his work and welcomed Child to the role. 

"Oroton is at a pivotal moment in its future, and to David’s credit, the business is well prepared to step into a new era. 

"David reengineered Oroton from a difficult place to what it is now; a well-oiled and rebuilt team. 

"He did this faster than we had expected and the company now looks forward to aggressively accelerating its online and international presence.

"With the appointment of Jenny Child into the CEO role, I am confident she will drive results to project the brand forward in today’s disruptive and fast-changing consumer environment. 

"During this period of accelerating Oroton’s transformation, the Board and I believe Jenny is the ideal incoming CEO to lead Oroton’s next chapter of growth and success," he said. 

Child will step into the role in October. 

23 Jul, 2021
Locked-down retailers call for landlords to share the pain
Financial Review

Retailers are calling for mandated rent relief from landlords as lockdowns in three states threaten to stretch on for weeks, decimating sales at bricks and mortar stores.

While the federal and state governments have offered support packages for stood-down workers and grants for small businesses, retailers say there has been no suggestion that landlords should be forced to share the pain by providing rent relief.

“In 2020 we had the mandated Leasing Code of Conduct and acknowledgment that there should be a sharing of the financial pain of lockdown between tenants and landlords,” said Melbourne retailer Kelley Langeliers.

“This time round? Nothing. And no one is speaking about this surefire business killer,” said Ms Langeliers, who owns a lifestyle and homewares store in Melbourne’s Mornington.

“We are being handed grants by the government, only to hand those grants and whatever cash is left in our businesses to pay full rent to landlords who have no imperative to participate in ‘sharing the pain’ this time,” she said.

15 Jul, 2021
Winning Group launches into New Zealand
Inside Retail

Appliances business Winning Group has opened its first distribution centre in New Zealand, signaling the business’ first international expansion.

Plus, the business opened its largest Australian distribution centre in Altona North in Melbourne: a 45,000sqm site boasting 55 loading docks.

Located in Waitemata Port in Auckland, the 6000sqm distribution centre will allow the business to cut middle mile logistics costs and serve the Auckland area much faster.

Winning Group owns and operates the Winning Appliances, Appliances Online, Rogerseller and Home Clearance businesses, and specialises in moving bulky goods.

“Our Auckland DC is ideally located within the Port, allowing us to destuff stock, including MPI clearance, coming into the Ports of Auckland, store, dispatch and deliver stock straight to Auckland-based customers,” said Winning Group’s general manager of operations Mick Bunt.

“We are also servicing delivery outside greater Auckland by facilitating the dispatch of goods ready for line haul.”

Bunt said the business is already providing third-party logistics services for a ‘leading furniture retailer’ in New Zealand, and will aim to build that network out moving forward.

The site in Melbourne, however, was purpose-built over the last year to deliver the best possible shopping experience to its key customers in Melbourne and Victoria at large.

“Both DCs will help to continue the Group’s solid double digit growth and provide our customers and 3PL partners in Australia and New Zealand, with our legendary care and exceptional service,” said Winning Group’s chief operations officer Ryan Fritsch.

15 Jul, 2021
Seafolly furthers sustainability mission with new collection
SOURCE:
Ragtrader
Ragtrader

 

Seafolly has released its second campaign with its new global ambassador Lara Worthington.

The 'Live The Beach' campaign celebrates the beach lifestyle and also helps to further Seafolly's sustainability mission. 

The collection is designed in Sydney and features innovative fabrics from Europe, textiles made from recycled fibres and quick dry cups for comfortability. 

Speaking on key styles in the new range, Seafolly said that it has used a range of techniques to develop the new collections in an eco-conscious way.  

"Seafolly’s sustainable approach starts with innovation.

"This season more so than ever, we have invested in new innovative fabrics and processes to further our journey to sustainability.

"The Twilight collection's swim styles have been crafted from a lurex fabrication, developed with a recycled Nylon base are perfect for long summer days in the sun and romantic starlight rendezvous. 

"Meanwhile, Laguna's bold floral print has been digitally printed on a recycled rope style texture base, this collection is tactile, connecting you to nature through style and fabrication," the brand said in a statement. 

The collection is inspired by retro prints, flora and fauna and sporty minimalism. 

Live The Beach launched today and is available now on the Seafolly website, Seafolly Concept stores and selected wholesale partners. 

15 Jul, 2021
Bras N Things reveals new charity partnership
SOURCE:
Ragtrader
Ragtrader

 

Bras N Things has partnered with the Women and Girls Emergency Centre (WAGEC), marketing manager Natalie Chalmers told Ragtrader

The partnership will see Bras N Things donate profits from the sales of select PJ sets and a dedicated tote bag to WAGEC, helping to further the organisation's work in providing support for women and families in crisis. 

"We're looking to empower women and children to build safe futures, end gender based violence and create a community where women and children are safe to confidently be themselves," Chalmers told Ragtrader. 

"So this is an incredible partnership for us, the women that work at WAGEC are just exceptional with the work they're doing. 

"We saw a lot of those stats that were coming out of last year throughout COVID and lockdown, and it's a space that we can genuinely partner with this charity and really drive change," Chalmers said. 

Alongside the financial donations, Bras N Things will create a 'comfort pack' for women and families accessing WAGEC's services. 

"So there'll be PJs, a little crop, some knickers and socks and they'll be in a tote bag for them," Chalmers added.

"So anytime a customer purchases one of these PJ sets, a percentage of those profits go into creating those comfort packs and all of the rest of the profits go direct to WAGEC and all of the work that they're doing," she said. 

The WAGEC Bras N Things products are available now, with the tote retailing for $7.99 and the PJ set retailing for $64.99. 

8 Jul, 2021
Isabel Marant Launches Online Shop Dedicated to Resale
Sourcing Journal

In another sign that luxury fashion is working toward a more circular future, French label Isabel Marant recently stepped into resale with Isabel Marant Vintage.

The new digital resale platform, initially created for the French market, aims to extend the life of authentic Isabel Marant garments and accessories, including items from the Isabel Marant, Isabel Marant Étoile and men’s lines.

Though labeled “vintage,” the preowned items available on the site lend themselves well to current trends. Items include 100 percent cotton jeans and denim jumpsuits, white leather cowboy boots and maximalist sequin-covered trousers.

Consumers can exchange their preowned Isabel Marant pieces through the platform for a discount voucher to use toward purchasing new items in stores or online, or on the vintage site. Additionally, deadstock clothing, footwear and accessories from prior collections will be sold on the platform.

“Based upon the notions of sustainability and heritage, this initiative provides an effective solution toward making fashion more circular,” the brand stated on its website.

The secondhand shop launches with a give-back component. Proceeds from Isabel Marant Vintage sales will be donated to the Isabel Marant Endowment Fund that will support women’s education and artisan craftsmanship in indigenous communities.

In November 2020, the designer was criticized by Mexican Culture Minister Alejandra Frausto Guerrero for using a pattern unique to the Purepecha community of northwestern Michoacan state without acknowledgement. The fashion brand responded by asking the community to “accept their most sincere apologies.”

Stepping into the growing vintage market is a strategic move for the French label as secondhand is showing signs of exponential growth. Recent data from online resale retailer ThredUP revealed that in 2020, 33 million consumers bought secondhand apparel for the first time. Secondhand is projected to double in the next five years to $77 billion.

8 Jul, 2021
Sportscraft expands into $2 billion market
SOURCE:
Ragtrader
Ragtrader

Sportscraft has expanded into the $2 billion women's activewear market with the launch of its first official activewear collection. 

The range marks a significant moment for the brand with Sportscraft being the first brand in Australia to launch an active offering with Liberty Fabrics. 

Sportscraft head of brand Jacolene Le Roux told Ragtrader that the collection marks the start of an expanded partnership with Liberty. 

"Our Liberty partnership is one of the cornerstones of our brand and what we are very much known for so it made perfect sense to continue this relationship for this limited edition range.

"The print we selected works in perfectly with the active styles, while still being flattering on the body but also relevant for our customer. 

"We have been in partnership with Liberty Fabrics for 38 years, so wanted to offer our customer a capsule collection that was not only exclusive, but also that they can trust in terms of being quality investment pieces they can have for life.

"We have some very exciting projects coming up with our Liberty partnership so this active range featuring the prints is just the first hint of what’s to come later in the year - so stay tuned," she said. 

To create the 18-piece range, Sportscraft reflected on its heritage to inform the collection, reimagining the Sportscraft logo into versatile clothing to live and exercise in.

Le Roux added that the brand launched the collection to cater to the new way in which Australians are dressing. 

"Athleisure has obviously become such an integral part of the Australian culture now, that it is a natural extension for us to offer this category in a very Sportscraft way.

"Being Australia’s most established fashion brand, born in 1914, we see ourselves as embodying the best aspects of this lifestyle, so the active range works in seamlessly with our other wardrobe staples," she said. 

The collection features a hoodie, t-shirt, singlet, leggings, track pant, windbreaker, crop top and jumper designs. 

The range comes in colours including mustard, black, white, blue, navy, khaki and Liberty's Elderberry print. 

It is available now and retails for between $69.99 and $129.99. 

8 Jul, 2021
Puma reveals largest Australian flagship at Chadstone
SOURCE:
Ragtrader
Ragtrader

Puma Oceania has opened its largest Australian flagship store at Chadstone Shopping Centre. 

The 330sqm store opened its doors to customers last week and showcases Puma's sports heritage with a focus on football, running, training and basketball. 

The flagship also features a dedicated ‘shopper engagement’ space which occupies a 16sqm area in the centre of the store.

The focus of the space, currently showcasing the brand’s AFL club partnerships, will rotate on a regular occurrence to connect with Melbourne’s key seasonal sport and lifestyle events.

The store also highlights the brand's lifestyle collections including Suede, Cali and Mayze as well as key global collaborations with brands such as Peanuts, Porsche and Scuderia Ferrari. 

"The opening of our new Chadstone store demonstrates the confidence we have in the future of bricks-and-mortar retail in Australia," Puma Oceania GM Daniel Gutstein said. 

"We are able to bring Puma's iconic sporting performance and lifestyle credentials to the fashion capital of Australia.

"Puma continues to outperform our growth targets in the region, and the Chadstone store opening increases the Puma brand presence in Australia.

"We have designed the Chadstone store to uniquely balance Puma’s global product portfolio and iconic ambassadors such as Dua Lipa, Neymar Jr and LaMelo Ball, with our exciting domestic partners such as Richmond Football Club, Carlton Football Club, GWS Giants Football Club and Melbourne City Football Club," he said. 

To celebrate the opening of Puma Chadstone the brand ran a through-the-line marketing campaign featuring out-of-home, digital, social media and in store activations giving shoppers the opportunity to win gift cards and prizes.

8 Jul, 2021
Retail leaders met with Government today to help speed up vaccinations
Inside FMCG

Business leaders around the country met with treasurer Josh Frydenberg today in the hopes of helping to get Australia’s vaccine rollout moving at a faster pace.

Chief executives from some of the country’s biggest retail businesses, such as Woolworths, Coles, and Wesfarmers, together with business leaders of other sectors, are offering to do inhouse vaccinations for their staff and, in some cases, set up mass vaccination centres in locations central to local population – something retailers are uniquely positioned to offer.

Frydenberg called it a “team Australia moment”.

“Today’s cooperation with the business community came as we moved into a new phase of our Covid response – in particular, the acceleration of the rollout of the vaccine,” Frydenberg said.

“We have about 300,000 Pfizer vaccines coming in each week which will increase to around 600,000 to 700,000 by the end of July and into August and the expectation is around 2 million by October – This is where the involvement of the Australian business community will be so important.

“And today we discussed how we can incorporate an issue such as transport, premises, immunity engagement, as well as communication.”

And, according to the ABC, business in on board with incentivising vaccinations: offering up free frequent flyer points and other things that are worth “more than a snag at Bunnings”.

Business Council of Australia chief executive Jennifer Westacott said it’s important for businesses to work together with the government to help get the vaccine rolled out as fast as possible once supply opens up – with Frydenberg predicting Australia’s weekly supply of vaccines to almost double by the end of July, and to hit two million a week in October.

“[It’s important] that we bring the resources and expertise of the corporate sector and really supercharge the vaccine when the supply arrives in the next couple of months,” Westacott said.

“And today we start doing the preparatory work so we can really get cracking when the supply gets here.”

There have been hints at on-site vaccination centres popping up in retailer’s carparks before, with Bunnings having offered to do so three months ago.

Shadow education minister Tanya Plibersek said she welcomed the roundtable, but said that it is “frankly incredible” that the Government is only just having these conversations.

“You look overseas and you have well over half the population vaccinated, in comparable countries,” Plibersek said, according to the ABC.

“We have a strong health systems. We have a willing population. And we are at the bottom of the pack, internationally, for vaccination rates. It beggars belief.”

1 Jul, 2021
Topshop redundancies confirmed at Asos
SOURCE:
Drapers
FM104

Staff were informed on 23 June that a mix of disciplines will be impacted by the restructuring, including around 38 employees across senior buying, established buying, design and merchandising.

Several sources told Drapers the company will begin a consultation next month.

In February, the etailer purchased Arcadia’s Topshop/Topman, Miss Selfridge and HIIT brands, for £265m. At the time, around 300 employees across design, buying and retail partnerships transferred to Asos.

Several industry insiders told Drapers last week that the business brought staff on when the deal completed and is now rationalising the headcount.

Asos declined to comment.

1 Jul, 2021
Honey Birdette snapped up by PLBY Group for $333 million
SOURCE:
Rag Trader
Rag Trader

Australian lingerie label Honey Birdette has been acquired by American pleasure and lifestyle company, Playboy Group (PLBY Group) for USD$333 million in cash and stock. 

The acquisition of the 15-year-old business comes as it has expanded and developed its North American and European presence over the past few years.

PLBY Group acquires Honey Birdette as it expects to deliver approximately $73 million of revenue and approximately $28 million of EBITDA for the 12 months ending June 30, 2021.

These results represent growth of over 40% and over 95%, respectively, over the prior year period.

Honey Birdette founder and MD Eloise Monaghan welcomed the deal. 

"When I founded Honey Birdette 15 years ago, my ambition was to build a brand for women, by women; a brand that would serve as a platform for confidence and sexual and body empowerment.

"I am immensely proud of everything we’ve accomplished – with 60 thriving stores across three countries – powered by 350 fierce female ambassadors. 

"Today is a momentous and proud day for the Honey Birdette team as we enter into partnership with one of the world’s most iconic brands and the lifestyle platform it represents.

"I’m thrilled to join Ben and the whole PLBY Group team on a mission to build a lifestyle of pleasure for all," she said. 

The acquisition of Honey Birdette will expand PLBY Group’s brand portfolio and will provide the Group with insights into Honey Birdette's product design, sourcing and direct-to-consumer capabilities that the Group will leverage to accelerate the growth of its core apparel and sexual wellness businesses.

PLBY Group CEO Ben Kohn added that the acquisition will drive growth for the Honey Birdette brand and the wider PLBY Group. 

"We are extremely excited to welcome Honey Birdette to PLBY Group. 

"We strongly believe in the power of brands, and are thrilled by Honey Birdette’s potential to become a multi-billion-dollar luxury lifestyle franchise.

"I’ve been enormously impressed by Eloise and the rest of the Honey Birdette team and the organic, rapid growth they’ve driven.

"Our plan is two-fold: to leverage PLBY Group and the Playboy brand’s global operations to accelerate Honey Birdette’s expansion into new territories and product categories, and to take advantage of Honey Birdette’s superior product design, sourcing and direct-to-consumer capabilities to accelerate our Playboy-branded lingerie, loungewear, swimwear, and sexual wellness go-to-market plans targeting the masstige consumer.

"This acquisition is expected to further our mission to become the leading pleasure and leisure lifestyle platform and our commitment to deliver long-term value to our shareholders," he said. 

Honey Birdette will continue its international expansion during this period, focusing on building its retail footprint across the US, UK and Europe.

In the US, new flagship stores will open in the coming months in Dallas, Miami and New York. 

Honey Birdette will also release new loungewear, swimwear and essentials collections in the coming months. 

The acquisition transaction is expected to close in the third quarter of 2021.

1 Jul, 2021
Lockdowns wipe $13 million from Kathmandu Holdings' FY21 results
SOURCE:
Rag Trader
Rag Trader

Kathmandu Holdings has revealed the impact the Victorian, New South Wales and newly announced Western Australia lockdowns are likely to have on its trading results. 

Currently, the Group has 40 stores closed in NSW for a minimum of two weeks and 26 stores closed in WA for a minimum of four days.

This follows the Victorian lockdown, which saw 62 stores close for two weeks in early June.  

Due to these closures, the Group expects total sales for FY21 to be below original expectations at approximately $930 million, and underlying EBITDA is estimated at c.$120 million. 

The impact of the New South Wales and recent Victorian lockdowns and associated movement restrictions is estimated to be c.$13 million on EBITDA. 

Kathmandu Holdings Group CEO Michael Daly said while COVID continues to disrupt trading, the business' brands are still tracking well. 

"COVID-19 continues to be a disrupting factor, in particular for Australasia during the key trading period for Kathmandu.

"Excluding these impacts, Kathmandu had a solid start to the winter season, and Rip Curl sales momentum continues.

"Trading conditions in the Northern Hemisphere for both Rip Curl and Oboz are particularly strong across our online, retail and wholesale channels, as our Group benefits from a diversified mix of channel and geographies," he said. 

According to the business, Kathmandu was trading broadly in line with pre-COVID-19 levels before Australian lockdowns began to impact the key winter trading period.

Rip Curl and Oboz have continued their strong performance, with the wholesale channel proving strong for both brands. 

Kathmandu Holdings reports that FY22 wholesale orders for Rip Curl continue to show double-digit growth over FY19, while Oboz's wholesale orders for FY22 are significantly above both FY19 and FY20. 

Additionally, Rip Curl's direct to consumer sales in Europe and North America have remained above pre-COVID levels. 

28 Jun, 2021
Blundy piles into Best & Less; IPO 2.0 launched
Financial Review

Best & Less’ IPO is back – and this time the company has got the backing of retail billionaire Brett Blundy.

As Street Talk first reported on Tuesday, Best & Less and its brokers Macquarie Capital and Bell Potter have put a re-cut, $60 million initial public offering to fund managers, a month since the clothing retailer pulled its run at the ASX boards,.

And in the intervening month, the Allegro Funds-owned retailer has also sealed a $40 million cash injection from Blundy, who has joined its board as a non-executive director.

Funds have been told to think about Blundy’s investment as a pre-IPO-type investment, which is separate from the float. He has taken a 16.4 per cent stake in the business as part of that deal.

The company and its brokers will be hoping that the appearance of the retail bigwig on the scene will mean the $60 million IPO now goes off without a hitch.

28 Jun, 2021
Kmart ‘hack’ pages have taken over the Aussie internet. They expose the grey area between online fandom and unpaid marketing.
Business Insider Australia
  • Kmart ‘hack’ pages and influencers devoted to the Australian department store brand have become a major force online, helping to rehabilitate the brand’s image and bottom line.
  • But Kmart does not financially remunerate the creators who promote its products, even though influencers can command sizable fees when working with brands.
  • Leaders in the “die hard” community say they are treated fairly by Kmart, but experts say there is a grey area between online fandom and unpaid promotion.
  • Visit Business Insider Australia’s homepage for more stories.

“At the moment, I’m standing in my front little hallway… bit,” Helen James says, her eyes roaming around the room. “So when you walk in my front door, this is what you see.”

Behind her is a low-lying shelf, which holds a simple, modern lamp and a candle. A framed photo peeks from below. A print hangs on the wall. It’s styled like a mid-century travel poster, but instead of Paris or Marrakech it advertises the golden sands of Frankston, a suburb on Melbourne’s southern outskirts. It is, by all accounts, a clean, neat corner of a modern Australian home.

“It’s a little bit of a hot mess at the moment, not much there,” James says.

“But Kmart has kindly, kindly sent me their new Egon sideboard. It’s $49, and I’m going to style it with some Kmart pieces, and hopefully dress up my little area, so it’s nice and inviting when you walk in the door.”

‘Inviting’ is the right word. James is speaking through her Instagram account, @i_heart_kmart, where she has welcomed 121,000 followers into her home, closet, and kitchen, each styled and supplied with goods from Australian department store Kmart. It is here where a suburban entryway becomes a hub for countless self-professed Kmart fans to congregate.

Her visitors approve of the new look. They comment on each element replaced by something a bit newer, a little fresher.

“Love this space,” one follower writes. “Do you mind letting me know what the back of the unit looks like?” comments another. “Do you think it could be a floating piece?”

James is a star in a constellation of content creators, acolytes, and thrifty shoppers who form the Kmart fan community. It’s a massive, influential, and under-researched group, whose online ranks have grown with the company’s resurgence in the last decade.

A brand renewal

There have been plenty of stories about Kmart’s miraculous turnaround, and how parent company Wesfarmers and former CEO Guy Russo made the brand profitable. Less has been said about its online fanbase, who somehow made Kmart — a dowdy discount department store — into something legitimately desirable.

Kmart certainly recognises the community’s value. James received her new sideboard through the brand’s “gifted for review” program, part of Kmart’s effort to involve the community’s biggest stars in its own marketing campaigns. Key figures are regularly invited to seasonal events and product launches.

But Kmart does not financially compensate the influencers who drive its online fandom. And company staff appear to control at least one major ‘hack’ group on Facebook, indicating that the brand plays a quiet but active role in seemingly ‘organic’ communities.

James, and the other influencers Business Insider Australia spoke to, say they are ecstatic to work with a brand they genuinely love.

But a question remains: in the modern influencer economy, should an online community, whose tastes help dictate the success of a billion-dollar company, ask for more than a free sideboard in return?

The heavily abridged story of Kmart Australia goes like this: After opening its first store in Burwood, Victoria in 1969, Kmart expanded to become a mainstay of Australia’s department store scene. Nestled between the upmarket Myer and David Jones, and cheaper two dollar store offerings, Kmart offered Australian households access to affordable essentials, selling microwaves, mugs, trackpants, and paperbacks by the pallet.

But the brand’s fortunes decreased as its range ballooned in size. By 2008, Kmart was the black sheep in parent company Wesfarmer’s portfolio, generating earnings before interest and tax of $114 million — well behind stablemate Target on $223 million.

With the brand reportedly slated for sale, Wesfarmers hired Guy Russo, former managing director and chief executive of McDonald’s Australia, to take the helm at Kmart. One of his first tasks: Slashing the number of stock-keeping units (or ‘SKUs’), reversing Kmart’s ‘more is more’ strategy and swapping periodic sales for a constant flow of discounts.

“When we removed the SKUs and dropped the price, we found our customer,” Russo told the “Scaling Up” podcast last year. “They were a customer that really wanted value.”

Kmart also gutted its reliance on brand names, leaving its competitors to squabble over the big-name labels. “Removing brands, I think that was the other masterstroke,” Russo said. “We used to sell some really significant brands, but when we dropped the price of underpants to a buck each, the brands weren’t selling at ten bucks each. All of the sudden, the brands took a natural death.”

Wesfarmers put faith in Russo’s vision, providing funds to renovate stores as the brand cut inventory costs. “Make them look like Disneyland,” Russo recalls telling colleagues.

Layouts changed, with traditional departments axed. Customers would no longer pop into the electronics aisle to buy a coffee machine. Instead, they would have to meander through the all-purpose ‘kitchen’ section, potentially picking up some new mugs and cutlery along the way.

“And then the last little masterstroke, although we got a lot of criticism for it, is we put the registers in the middle,” Russo said. The move forced customers to spend a few more moments surrounded by product, giving them one last opportunity to reimagine their home before stepping back into the world.

It was expensive, time-consuming, and one of the most successful brand rehabilitations in Australian history, with Kmart pulling off one of the hardest tricks in retail: convincing customers it was ‘affordable’, not ‘cheap’.

Shoppers didn’t flinch at the brand’s slightly less vast range – instead, they bought en masse, energised by the low prices. When Russo retired as chief executive of Wesfarmer’s department stores in 2018, the segment posted earnings before interest and tax of $660 million, led by “continued strong growth in Kmart”.

The rise of a new kind of online fan

Low prices and sheer ubiquity go a long way in describing why so many Australians became enamoured by Kmart.

Yet that does little to explain the phenomenal passion of its fanbase, and why thousands of teachers, doctors, stay-at-home parents and retirees evangelise for the brand in their spare time. Another development is on the hook for that one: after shoppers left Kmart’s new, central registers, they set up their new goods at home and shared the photos on Instagram and Facebook.

“The marketing got done by our customers, which was the best part,” Russo said.

“My Instagram actually began because of Kmart,” Helen James told Business Insider Australia. “I would go in store and just see so many cool, on-trend pieces for ridiculously low prices, and so I would take photos and then post them to my page.”

It didn’t take long for photos of Kmart homewares and decor — long dismissed as a cut-price alternatives to more desirable products — to fill James’ page. “It was all a matter of timing really,” she said. “Instagram was just starting to take off, Kmart was just starting to refresh their image and homewares range, and I basically bought the two together.”

Friends would tag acquaintances in her post, who’d then tag others, which eventually led to James’ account picking up 400 new followers a week. “People couldn’t get enough of seeing all the new products coming into store,” James added.

She was not alone. As smartphone cameras empowered shoppers to become the stylists and creative directors of their own fashion shoots, many turned to Kmart, a newly trendy store with a national footprint. Some held elaborate shoots, co-opting the visual grammar of magazine spreads and established bloggers, laundering Kmart’s image among the high-fashion milieu. Others simply strolled the aisles, taking photos of fleece jumpers, baby rompers, and coffee tables as they appeared in-store.

‘Lawyer by day, Bargain Hunter by night,’ reads the profile of Jasmine Pisasale’s Instagram account, which she started seven years ago as an escape from the “stressful” requirements of her job. “I found Kmart to be more than just a shopping experience,” she told Business Insider Australia. “I love to pass time walking through the stores… It brings me a sense of excitement – ‘what am I going to see in Kmart today?'”

The excitement translated to flatlays, wishlists, and travel shots, with each outfit item meticulously tagged back to the brand’s own Instagram account. Her lifestyle shots show artfully rumpled linens, throw blankets draped over low-slung armchairs and, more recently, Pisasale’s young son, exploring the beach for the first time while wearing a Kmart-branded bucket hat.

Fans have “watched me get married and have my first child along the way,” Pisasale said, noting the growth in follower numbers — around 32,000, at time of writing — as “steady” and “organic”.

“I have made connections with so many inspiring individuals from other accounts too,” she added. “So the growth has not just been in numbers, but also in new friendships and networks.”

James and Pisasale have leveraged their followings for active partnerships with the brand. Both have participated in invite-only Kmart events, which influencers use to share sneak-peeks at unreleased products with their own fans. Kmart used a familiar playbook to bring these social media figures onside, according to Dr Brent Coker, a lecturer in digital marketing at the University of Melbourne.

“A common strategy with influencer marketing now is called ‘always on’,” Coker said. “These are people who genuinely like your brand, and eventually they’re posting content, if they aren’t already, about how great you are. That kind of gets integrated into their life, which has been recorded through social media.”

Coker, who has written a book on viral marketing, says consumers “can smell when there’s a team of five marketers behind something from a mile away.” Latching onto social media users who already love your brand is an easy workaround.

“It’s almost cliche, that kind of statistic that gets bandied about, that consumers trust each other more than the brand nowadays,” he added. “But it’s just true.”

The world of Kmart ‘hacks’

As Kmart built clout on Instagram through glossy fan photoshoots, something stranger, and far less predictable, was happening on Facebook.

via Facebook

Kmart ‘hack’ groups, named for the way users repurpose Kmart products beyond their original and intended use, have become a dominant part of the Australian social media experience. Few Facebook users are too far removed from these enormous public forums, where woven baskets become lampshades, shower caddies are nappy holders, and chopping boards are refashioned as bath trays, styled with tea lights and sparkling wine.

One of the larger groups, founded in 2015, now boasts 470,000 members. If membership counted as adherence to a religion, it would be one of the largest faith groups in the country.

There are dozens of denominations of this all-encompassing faith. There are offshoots for Kmart weddings and Kmart pets, as well as groups for teachers, who festoon their classrooms with Kmart supplies. Some users devote their time to organisation hacks, posting photos of meticulously-labelled spice racks or ways to stuff unsightly TV cables into ornamental boxes. There is a group dedicated to recipes for Kmart’s cult-favourite pie maker with almost 65,000 members. There is even a ‘hacks for normal people’ group, for those reluctant to admit their appreciation for Kmart’s broad, recognisable aesthetic.

What is the Kmart ‘look’, exactly? The textiles are muted: beige and burnt ochre, rosy salmon layered over the blue-grey of eucalyptus. Tables, drawers, and shelving units are typically enamel-white, or “oak look”, which is a sunbleached woodgrain applied to cheap particle board. Accent pieces are pearlescent silver, quartz, or chalky coral. Rattan and cane are slowly supplanting Kmart’s mid-decade turn to bronze and ‘millennial pink’, leaving the overarching aesthetic casual, coastal, and deliberately inoffensive — a bootleg Scandi chic, suffused with salty air.

Kmart’s products are certainly more appealing than they were a decade ago. Their versatility is appropriate for everything from baby showers to Ramadan celebrations, both of which feature prominently in the biggest ‘hack’ groups. The brand name appliances and clothes Kmart abandoned have largely been replaced by Anko, the brand’s in-house label, which launched in 2019. Similar to Costco’s Kirkland line, Anko does a bit of everything, allowing Kmart’s 300-strong buying team to funnel wireless earphones, vacuum cleaners, and fan-favourite air fryers into stores nationwide.

But in the brand’s savvy attempt to ensure every product matches everything else, redecoration has become a largely shop-by-numbers process. It’s one thing to observe the details of a Kmart-hacked lounge room, but flipping through the endless stretch of white and subdued earth tones sprawled over social media has a distinct numbing effect; an overwhelmingly pleasant vibe you might call ‘Byron purgatorial’.

The effect is most pronounced on Facebook. While Instagram fosters the curation of a distinct personal brand — “lawyer by day, bargain hunter by night” — Facebook unsubtly guides users into open forums, where ‘successful’ room transformations are celebrated through thousands of likes and comments. Looks the community deems distasteful are torn down in spectacular fashion. Many groups, for example, outright ban posts featuring Kmart’s infamous marble-effect book contact, after users were condemned for covering entire countertops with it. By virtue of Facebook’s voracious algorithm, users are more likely to see the most ‘successful’ looks, making them even more likely to be replicated in real life and then, in turn, fed back into Facebook.

The virality of these hacks has not gone unnoticed by Australian news organisations, either. Outlets regularly aggregate and package popular hacks into snappy, attention-grabbing pieces of online content. There’s Daily Mail Australia with ‘Shopper transforms Kmart shelves into chic furniture’; News Corp’s parent-centric KidSpot with ‘Kmart hack: How to turn $8 fruit bowl into mesh light shade; and 7 News, which now dedicates several articles a week to ‘cult buys’ and other Kmart-related phenomena. These articles then return to Facebook, reaching users who might have otherwise missed ‘Mum’s genius Kmart bedhead hack’, or ‘The secret sale section at Kmart with ‘heavily-reduced’ markdowns that you had no idea about’.

This feedback loop has reverberated into living rooms across the nation. It has homogenised suburban interiors, and certainly generated massive revenue for the brand. And it has transformed the ‘hack’ community into one of the most powerful forces in the Australian influencer economy. Kmart fan groups and influencers now serve as an open-air focus group, filling a board room which spans the continent.

Their dreams and desires have translated into an expanded toy range reflecting the diversity of Kmart’s customer base, a revamped take on the aforementioned pie-maker — which probably deserves its own analysis as a cultural artefact — and an overhaul of the brand’s fashion offerings. “I recall some influencers at a past event asking about the possibility of expanding their plus size range, and the style team took it on board and made significant efforts to expand the styles available,” Pisasale said.

“They really do listen to community feedback, which I love,” James added. “Womenswear, the Curve Collection, the quality of materials, the introduction of more sustainable products … I think over the years all of these improvements have really been driven from a grass roots level.”

But Kmart does not pay any of the influencers associated with its brand for these insights, be they polished Instagrammers or time-poor parents sharing pictures of their spice rack.

“As a business we do not do paid or sponsored content,” a Kmart representative told Business Insider Australia. “Rather we have a ‘gifted for review’ program where media and social media influencers are sent product (where relevant to them or their family) to review, trial and are encouraged to share their feedback.”

The uneasy relationship between marketing and ‘playbour’

Analysis of the influencer market suggests Kmart is getting a bargain.

A 2020 report by global social media analytics firm HypeAuditor found Australia’s professional Instagrammers — that is, creators who earn money on the platform by advertising brands and products to their followers — can command four-figure fees per post, even without the reach of homegrown superstars like Chris Hemsworth or Margot Robbie.

The report defines creators like James as ‘macro-influencers,’ who boast follower counts between 100,000 and 1 million, as “famous in a local community”. Creators in this tier can be expected to charge up to $1,200 for a sponsored post. Those with more concentrated followings, between 20,000 and 100,000, can bill brands up to $250 for access to their audience.

On the bottom rung are ‘nano-influencers’, the “regular consumers who are passionate and willing to share, but have little influence.” These figures can expect to earn $10 to $50 per post, if they earn at all. But these creators trade reach for engagement, the default measurement of a post’s impact. A major Australian celebrity might be expected to draw an engagement rate of 2.2%. This figure doubles for Australian nano-influencers.

The mode of influence changes, too: instead of a top-down relationship, nano-influencers reach each other in an omni-directional transfer of ideas, tastes, and aesthetics. The same pattern is exhibited by Facebook group members, even if the influencer economy has traditionally treated them as customers, not creators. For a brand like Kmart, the question then becomes one of scale: Why pay for access to one celebrity’s Australian audience, when everyday Instagrammers and a hivemind of 450,000 Facebook users will promote your product for free?

Catherine Archer, a senior lecturer in strategic communications at Perth’s Murdoch University, is one of several academics focused on digital ‘playbour’, the sticky middle ground between online fandom and paid service to a brand.

The benefit of these groups to Kmart is obvious, she said. But unlike traditional influencers, whose success is determined by click-through rates, it is harder to calculate their objective value to the brand. This under-researched commercial relationship makes compensation difficult to determine, if the conversation comes up at all.

“It’s all a bit blurred when you get to the ethics of interacting with people who are just like us, the everyday community,” Archer said, adding that participants “sometimes people don’t realise how absolutely amazing they are for that brand.” Savvy operators can forge careers out of online fan accounts, but for the most part, there are “a lot of people who don’t make any money out of it.”

Certainly, nobody is forcing hundreds of thousands of bargain hunters to proselytise for Kmart. The influencers Business Insider Australia spoke to expressed their genuine devotion to the brand, and appreciation for the way staff took their messages onboard. Not every fan group needs, or deserves, financial compensation from the causes they profess to support, and not every aspect of digital life should be packaged and sold to the highest bidder.

But it is hard not to see Kmart’s fan community as a case where the brand takes at least as much as it gives.

“Customer feedback through all of these channels are incredibly important to the entire Kmart team from design, buying, our quality technicians, stores and across to our distribution centres,” a Kmart spokesperson told Business Insider Australia.

“It allows us to listen to our customers, apply learnings where possible and continue to deliver great quality products at the lowest prices for everyone in the family.”

The brand does listen closely. At least one major ‘hack’ page, which does not advertise any official relationship with the brand, appears to be quietly administered by Kmart employees.

The company did not respond to questions about that group.

In his podcast appearance, Russo casually mentioned that at one point in his tenure as CEO, women accounted for 85% of sales. A cursory glance at the Kmart fan community suggests a similar demographic split. What these groups are, then, is a chance for Australian women to celebrate domestic ingenuity, and the unselfish, underappreciated labour of making a home. They are places for mothers — financially isolated compared to their male counterparts, yet contributing a disproportionate percentage of household labour — to find entertainment, inspiration, and community.

“I did some research about mothers using Facebook a few years ago, doing some focus groups and surveys,” Archer said. “And some of the reasons for being on Facebook were that sense of escape, to be in closed groups for advice, and genuinely to just sort of escape from boredom in some ways.

“But also feeling part of that connection to communities. And Kmart groups meet all of that.”

“We don’t use the word instinct, but it’s an instinctual sort of behavior, you know,” Coker added. “Once upon a time, it was beneficial for your survival to belong in a group… It’s kind of biologically programmed.”

But when some of the largest forums in Australian public life operate in service of commerce, should its participants not receive compensation for their contributions to the brand? And what good is a system which promises alienation for those who opt out altogether?

“What came up in the focus groups I did with mums of young children is that it’s very hard not to be on Facebook, because you feel a bit tethered to it,” Archer continued. “Because like I said, all the parties are on there, or everything’s on them. It throws you back in. And we know they work very hard to keep drawing back in, even if you don’t want to be drawn in.”

That Kmart became the beneficiary of an atomised society almost seems accidental, a fortunate addition to the brand’s offline overhaul. Any department store offering fashionable, cut-price goods could have feasibly profited from Facebook’s monopolisation of digital life. Regardless, brands will learn from Kmart’s example. And they will see community as a product, waiting to be repurposed.

28 Jun, 2021
PVH to sell Izod, Van Heusen and Arrow brands to ABG
Inside Retail

Heritage international apparel brands Izod, Van Heusen, and Arrow are set to have a new owner after Authentic Brands Group reached an agreement to purchase them from PVH Corp.

The three brands have about 60 licensing partners around the world, crossing the apparel spectrum and extending into furnishings, fragrance and homewares. 

Established in 1938, Izod, helped take golf-inspired apparel style mainstream with its short-sleeved polo shirts, and today its focus is seasonal sportswear and performance golf apparel. 

Van Huesen is a 100-year-old menswear brand, while Arrow has substantial licensing, retail and merchandise programs around the world, with partners in India, Thailand, the Middle East, and Latin America.

“This acquisition was particularly attractive because of PVH’s well-established partnerships for these heritage brands,” said Jamie Salter, founder, chairman and CEO of ABG, in a statement announcing the deal. 

“Each brand has strong consumer recognition, global distribution anchored at leading retailers and robust product programs with best-in-class licensing partners. We believe there are significant opportunities to tap into the brands’ rich histories and to further grow their presence around the world.”

Post deal – which remains subject to regulatory approval and other normal conditions – PVH will continue to operate the brands’ dress furnishings business in North America under a licensing deal.   

Another company, Centric Brands, has been granted the license for Izod men’s sportswear, while United Legwear & Apparel Company has been granted licenses for Van Heusen and Arrow men’s sportswear. 

24 Jun, 2021
Victoria’s Secret is making a radical attempt to rebrand itself
SOURCE:
The Age
The Age

The Victoria’s Secret “Angels”, those avatars of Barbie bodies and playboy reverie, are gone. Their wings, fluttery confections of rhinestones and feathers that could weigh almost 14 kilograms, are gathering dust in storage. The “Fantasy Bra,” dangling real diamonds and other gems, is no more.

In their place are seven women famous for their achievements and not their proportions. They include Megan Rapinoe, the 35-year-old pink-haired soccer star and gender equity campaigner; Eileen Gu, a 17-year-old Chinese American freestyle skier and soon-to-be Olympian; the 29-year-old bi-racial model and inclusivity advocate Paloma Essler, who was the rare size 14 woman on the cover of Vogue; and Priyanka Chopra Jonas, a 38-year-old Indian actor and tech investor.

They will be spearheading what may be the most extreme and unabashed attempt at a brand turnaround in recent memory: an effort to redefine the version of “sexy” that Victoria’s Secret represents (and sells) to the masses. For decades, Victoria’s Secret’s scantily clad supermodels with Jessica Rabbit curves epitomised a certain widely accepted stereotype of femininity. Now, with that kind of imagery out of step with the broader culture and Victoria’s Secret facing increased competition and internal turmoil, the company wants to become, its CEO said, a leading global “advocate” for female empowerment.

Will women buy it? An upcoming spinoff, more than $US5 billion ($6.6 billion) in annual sales, and 32,000 jobs in a global retail network that includes roughly 1400 stores are riding on the answer.

It is a stark change for a brand that not only long sold lingerie in the guise of male fantasy, but has also been scrutinised heavily in recent years for its owner’s relationship with sex offender Jeffrey Epstein and revelations about a misogynistic corporate culture that trafficked in sexism, sizeism and ageism.

“When the world was changing, we were too slow to respond,” said Martin Waters, former head of Victoria’s Secret’s international business who was appointed CEO of the brand in February. “We needed to stop being about what men want and to be about what women want.”

The seven women, who form a group called the VS Collective, will alternately advise the brand, appear in ads and promote Victoria’s Secret on Instagram. They are joining a company that has an entirely new executive team and is forming a board of directors in which all but one seat will be occupied by a woman.

Rarely has a company so dominant in its sector been exposed as trailing so far behind the culture as Victoria’s Secret was in the wake of the #MeToo movement.

It was, Rapinoe said bluntly, “patriarchal, sexist, viewing not just what it meant to be sexy but what the clothes were trying to accomplish through a male lens and through what men desired. And it was very much marketed toward younger women.” That message, she said, was “really harmful.”

Victoria’s Secret’s cultural influence is a product of its industry standing. Though the company’s share of the US women’s underwear market dropped to 21 per cent last year from 32 per cent in 2015, according to Euromonitor International, it is still a powerhouse. Its next closest competitor is Hanesbrands, with a 16 per cent share.

Founded in 1977 as a store where men could feel comfortable shopping for lingerie, even the name referred to male fantasies of prim Victorian ladies who became naughty in the boudoir. Retail billionaire Leslie H. Wexner bought Victoria’s Secret in 1982 and turned it into a phenomenon that helped shape society’s view of female sexuality and beauty ideals. Central to its ethos were the “Angels” — supermodels like Heidi Klum and Tyra Banks who posed exclusively for the brand, often in G-strings, stilettos and wings. In 1995, it introduced the Victoria’s Secret fashion show, a sort of cross between a runway show and a pole dance that aired on network television for nearly two decades.

It has taken years for Victoria’s Secret to acknowledge that its marketing was dated. In that time, the value of the brand eroded and a slew of competitors grew in part by positioning themselves as the anti-Victoria’s Secret, complete with more typical women’s bodies and a focus on inclusivity and diversity.

The brand has also come under fire after Wexner’s close ties to Epstein came to light in 2019 and a New York Times investigation last year showed that Wexner and his former chief marketing officer, Ed Razek, presided over an entrenched culture of misogyny, bullying and harassment.

“I’ve known that we needed to change this brand for a long time, we just haven’t had the control of the company to be able to do it,” Martin said. As for the Angels? “Right now, I don’t see it as being culturally relevant,” he said.

Razek and Wexner will not be a part of the new Victoria’s Secret, which will split from L Brands and Bath & Body Works to become its own public company this summer. (The pandemic scuttled a sale to a private-equity firm and swallowed $US2 billion in revenue.) There are more women in charge, including a new chief marketing officer, Martha Pease, who has led the Collective initiative. The stores that survived a year of culling are becoming lighter and brighter, and mannequins — which have typically been a size 32B — will come in new shapes and sizes. The Angels imagery, which once even appeared on store bathroom TVs, will be phased out. The company will still sell products like thongs and lacy lingerie but its purview will expand, especially in areas like sportswear.

“In the old days, the Victoria brand had a single lens, which was called ‘sexy,’” Waters said. While that sold for decades, it also prevented the brand from offering products like maternity or post-mastectomy bras (not considered sexy) and prompted it to sell push-up sports bras (sexy, but not so popular). It also meant, he said, “that the brand never celebrated Mother’s Day.” (Not sexy.)

There are plenty of people who do, in fact, find motherhood seductive, but the myopia of the Victoria’s Secret lens was such that they were never acknowledged, let alone listened to.

“As a gay woman, I think a lot about what we think is sexy, and we are afforded the ability to do that, because I don’t have to wear the traditional sexy thing to be sexy and I don’t think the traditional thing is sexy when it comes to my partner or people I’ve dated,” said Rapinoe. “I think functionality is probably the sexiest thing we could possibly achieve in life. Sometimes just cool is sexy too.”

Still, the question remains: Why would women like Rapinoe and Chopra Jonas want to risk their names by placing their stamp of credibility on Victoria’s Secret? The line between selling out and infiltrating from within can be hard to discern.

“Of course there will be people who are like, ‘Does this make sense?‘” said Rapinoe, who acknowledged that when she was first approached, “I, too, was like ‘What? Why do you want to work with me?’” She said she had been convinced by the willingness of the brand’s executives to acknowledge their mistakes and history, and by the fact that her role is not limited to the typical “brand ambassadorship,” but extends to consulting on language the company uses, the assortment of products it offers and narrative it’s putting out.

The VS Collective also includes Valentina Sampaio, a Brazilian trans model; Adut Akech, a model and South Sudanese refugee; and Amanda de Cadenet, photographer and founder of #Girlgaze, the digital platform for female photographers. All of them, in the words of Rapinoe, are people who were not “typical brand targets in the past.” As for the fashion show, Waters said it would most likely return in 2022 in a very different form. What the brand will offer soon is a podcast featuring the women in the collective, a medium that requires no visuals.

“To rebrand is going to take a lot of steps to ensure that they have the consumer trust, that this isn’t just inclusivity-washing,” said Erin Schmidt, a senior analyst at Coresight Research.

Victoria’s Secret is betting a chunk of its marketing budget that persuading such unexpected personalities to join their cause will in turn convince consumers, and potential investors, to similarly believe in its shift, giving a new meaning to halo effect.

As Rapinoe said, “I don’t know if Victoria has a secret anymore.”

15 Jun, 2021
The Iconic names former Nike exec as general manager for Sport
Inside Retail

Lifestyle and fashion retailer The Iconic has hired former Nike executive Andrew Poole to fill its newly created role of general manager for Sport.

Poole, who will commence with the role this month, will be responsible for the retailer’s sports category, leading a cross-functional and customer-focused team.

The Iconic said the past 12 months marked a period of significant growth for the company’s Sport section, with both an increase in assortment and amplified marketing investment in full funnel integrated campaigns.

“We are thrilled to welcome Andrew to The Iconic team after an extensive global search to fill the newly created role of general manager, Sport,” said Gayle Burchell, The Iconic’s chief category officer.

“By being truly customer centric and curating a world-class offering, our sports category is an integral part of our business,” Burchell said. “We can’t wait for Andrew to bring his wealth of expertise as we deliver further strength to this category.”

Before joining The Iconic, Poole was senior sales director for Nike Sportswear for four years. In this role, Poole drove commercial functions and growth for the business through a customer-centric market strategy, recruiting and optimising high performance teams. Prior to this, Poole managed the full P&L for Nike Pacific across merchandise, tech, marketing, supply chain, finance sales and HR.

“The opportunity to apply my retail and e-commerce sports experience to a disruptive retailer like The Iconic makes this role an incredibly exciting prospect,” Poole said. “The Iconic has driven unrivalled customer loyalty and market growth and I look forward to supporting them as they continue on this impressive trajectory.”

 

15 Jun, 2021
R.M. Williams names new chief marketing officer
Inside Retail

Former advertising firm executive Chris Willingham has joined the senior leadership team at footwear and apparel brand R.M. Williams as its new chief marketing officer.

He will start on the new role in the coming weeks.

Willingham, former managing director of advertising and brand consulting company DDB New Zealand, will aim to drive the next phase of growth for the 89-year-old South Australia-based company.

“I’m incredibly excited to be given stewardship of such a famous, culturally important brand,” Willingham said.

“I bought my first pair of Craftsman boots when I travelled through Sydney during the ’90s and fell in love with R.M.Williams there and then.

“This is a unique, once-in-a-career opportunity and it’ll be an absolute privilege to work together with the R.M. Williams team to lead the brand through the next stage of its  evolution.”

John Hartman, chief investment officer of Tattarang, which acquired 100 per cent of R.M. Williams last year, welcomed Willingham’s appointment, and said his role will be critical in accelerating the brand’s new growth strategies across digital and international markets.

Before DDB, Willingham was the global director on the Nike brand at Wieden + Kennedy, overseeing campaigns for the 2016 Olympics and 2018 World Cup, among others. He also led BBDO’s Singaporean hub and spent nine years at Fallon in London.

 

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